I have commissioned the suit from our tailor Chris at Copperfield. There are still many variables to lock down (where the trip will take place, the specific itinerary, activities and accommodations) so the suit is being designed against the broadest set of requirements I can foresee:
- Durability (won’t quickly bag at the knees or show signs of wear)
- Cleanability (needs to be able to be hand cleaned)
- Breathability (across warmer and colder climes)
This led us to select a natural mid-weight wool in a Prince Of Wales plaid:
In terms of design we are definitely creating a hybrid of various styles to accommodate aesthetic and functional requirements:
The trousers will be cut slightly larger at the waist and wider in the leg to afford extra movement (for cycling and hiking). We will go with braces (suspenders) that reside behind the waistcoat and button to the trousers. We are doing a standard no-cuff at the leg.
The jacket will be cut slightly long to give a sense of proportion (I have very long legs). We selected a box pleat (aka an action pleat) for the jacket. This is commonly known as a Norfolk Pleat for its use in the Norfolk Jacket . This single pleat behind the shoulder will allow for extra movement in the arms. Originally the pleats in a Norfolk jacket allowed mobility for hunters holding a rifle. For our trip the pleat will allow me to ride a bike, horse and generally hike about.
We are going with a tab collar that allows me to pin flora from the journey into the jacket on a daily basis (more on this in a later post). We are also going with patch pockets that keep the design inline with a traditional hunting jacket. The lining will be a rich burgundy paisley that picks up on the red-thread that distinguishes the Prince of Wales check fabric.
Some great reading on the Norfolk Jacket - it’s origins and design - is at The Gentlemen’s Gazette: http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/norfolk-jacket-guide/
As a matter of trivia - it seems Indiana Jones wore an action pleated leather jacket… http://indylounge.proboards.com/thread/69/raiders-jacket-screen-caps